Sushi does not refer to fish, nor to rice in general. Sushi refers to the seasoned rice which is of course is used in a multitude of ways. One question that I get asked often is what vinegar is best in sushi, as well as what I personally use in my restaurant.
In fact, the choice of vinegar is not so simple, but it does not matter for the reasons one might think. Most brands of vinegars used for sushi are perfectly acceptable. The real question is ‘red or white?’
Wait…what? I thought sushi uses rice vinegar?
The Difference Between Komezu, Yonezu, And Akazu
Komezu: Komezu is the all encompassing term for Japanese rice vinegar. While it is often used interchangeably with yonezu, as an umbrella term it also includes other types of rice vinegar within its category.
Yonezu: Yonezu, also called shirozu (white vinegar) is the standard white rice vinegar used in 99% of sushi rice making. Most people will never say yonezu or shirozu unless asked to specify ‘which vinegar’ as komezu is often used in its place.
Akazu: Akazu is red vinegar made from aging sake lees (byproduct of sake making). It was the original vinegar used in edomae sushi, but these days it is a more boutique product that can fetch higher prices.
The Two Types Of Vinegar Used In Sushi Making: Yonezu And Akazu
I’ve written in detail about akazu, which is the vinegar traditionally used in edomae style sushi. This is most often seen at high end or prestige style restaurants, where masters hold fast to tradition.
Akazu, aka red vinegar, is made from sake lees. This is the byproduct leftover after making sake (Japanese rice wine). Akazu was traditionally used because it was the main vinegar available back when sushi was created.
Back then, white rice vinegar was seen as a waste. Why use tasty rice to make vinegar when you can use it to eat or make sake. Vinegar should be made from the waste.
Yonezu used to be the more expensive vinegar, as it was made by essentially ruining sake. However these days yonezu is the most common vinegar used in sushi making and what you will likely receive if you ask for a bottle of komezu (rice vinegar).
How Is Komezu Japanese Rice Vinegar Made
Komezu, or rice vinegar, is made from rice in the same way as sake. First the rice is steamed, then koji (rice mold) and water are added which starts the fermentation process. The sugar in the rice turns into alcohol and voila – sake! From this point a vinegar master can decide to make white (yonezu) or red (akazu) vinegars.
Yonezu (Shirozu)
After the sake is filtered one more thing has to happen to turn it into yonezu, or white rice vinegar. That is the addition of vinegar and acetic acid bacteria. Yes, vinegar is added to sake to make vinegar.
The bacteria turns the alcohol in the sake to acetic acid, which is what makes vinegar…vinegar. After fermenting for a few months the product is filtered and put into sterilized bottles to be sold and used.
Akazu
After the sake is filtered, there is a paste like substance left over. This is called the sake lees. To make akazu the sake lees are put into a cedar barrel and left to age for three or more years. In this time the sake lees will darken drastically from a light yellow/brown to a dark brown color.
Next the aged sake lees will be mixed with water and sake and a vinegar mother to create a mash known as moromi. Moromi is not actually a physical thing, but rather the name of a process of fermentation. However the mixture of lees, water, sake, and vinegar mother is called a moromi mash.
This mash is placed into a cedar barrel and left to age for another year (or longer) before it is finally pressed and filtered into akazu.
What Vinegar Is Best For Making Sushi Rice
Now that we understand the two different types of vinegar used in sushi rice* it is time to determine what is the best vinegar for making sushi rice.
Well, like many things to do with food, the answer is ‘it depends’.
The best vinegar for making sushi rice is the one meant for what you are trying to make. So if you want to make edomae style sushi then the best vinegar is akazu. If you are just making any regular sushi casually then yonezu is a better choice as it is cheaper and more readily available.
Now if you came to this article looking for “what brand of vinegar is best for sushi rice?” then continue on.
*I am leaving out other types of vinegars that are used rarely or as a novelty like kurozu (black vinegar) or the various fruit vinegars, however I do make sushi rice with them and have instructions here.
Best Brands Of Sushi Vinegar
The most famous brands of yonezu and akazu are Iio Jozo and Yokoi respectively. However there are other great options and you should use whatever is easy to get and within your budget. Man
Recommended Yonezu Brands
Tajima Jozo produces this junmai (pure) rice vinegar which has a pale yellow color and mellow taste.
Tajima Jozo is one of my favorite brands and they make so many fun and unique vinegars for different purposes.
Iio Jozo is regarded as the best komezu manufacturer in Japan, and while various chefs have their own opinion, it is common to see Iio Jozo brand bottles at many of the top sushi restaurants.
The company started in 1893 and has a regular and premium line of rice vinegar. They also have a sweet potato vinegar that is good in marinades!
Marusho is a company founded in 1879 in Tenma, Nachi Katsuura. They make a line of very good vinegars.
Their standard, high quality pure rice vinegar is a very light yellow with a sweet, delicate taste. It is great in sushi rice as well as other Japanese dishes.
Recommended Akazu Brands
Tajima Jozo is a rather new brewery from Hyogo prefecture. It was just created in 2008, but is one of my favorite producers of akazu, and what I use often in my restaurant.
Yokoi Brewing is the only akazu manufacturer (to my knowledge) in Tokyo, and has a wonderful reputation. They have been around since 1937. Their akazu is used by many of the most world renowned sushi restaurants. They actually have three lines of red vinegar, perfect for any specific need.
Kono factory is from Okayama prefecture and has been around since 1888! They have two lines: akazu already mixed with sugar and salt and their premium pure akazu. I recommend the latter as I feel red vinegar should be used independently.
Conclusion
Whether you are making edomae or even a modern California roll, the type of vinegar used to season the rice is ultimately up to you. Hopefully this guide provided a little insight into the best vinegars to use for sushi rice. If you have any questions for me please leave them down below and I will try my best to answer them.