Sushi, with its delicate balance of flavors and textures, relies heavily on the quality and preparation of its key ingredient: sushi rice. Mastering the art of making perfect sushi rice is essential for creating authentic nigiri, makizushi, and other types of dishes. In this comprehensive guide, I will instruct you on the techniques, tips, and secrets to achieving restaurant-quality sushi rice at home, along with a detailed exploration of its history and cultural significance.
Some chefs will say that making perfect sushi rice takes a lifetime to learn. In fact, in Japan the belief that we should spend ages perfecting a craft is something that permeates our society. However I do believe that with the proper technique and practice anyone can make Michelin-level sushi rice even in their own home.
What Is Sushi Rice
At the heart of sushi is the sushi rice, known as “shari” or “sumeshi” in Japanese. Sumeshi translates directly to vinegared rice, while shari means Buddha’s bones (due to the off-white color of the rice). Unlike regular rice, sushi rice is short-grain Japanese rice (japonica rice) that becomes sticky when cooked, making it ideal for shaping into various sushi like nigiri or temaki and holding toppings together. The texture and flavor of sushi rice come from its balance of moisture and seasoning.
A defining features of sushi rice is its seasoned vinegar mixture, known as sushi-zu, which gives it a subtle tangy flavor and glossy appearance. The sushi-zu typically combines rice vinegar, sugar (optional), and salt (optional), carefully balanced to enhance the natural sweetness of the rice while providing a slight acidity that complements the seafood and other ingredients.
Another characteristic of sushi rice are the appearance and bite of the individual grains. The grains of sushi rice are plump and slightly translucent when properly cooked, with a tender yet firm texture that provides a pleasant mouthfeel in sushi dishes.
Selecting The Right Rice For Sushi
The foundation of great sushi rice begins with choosing the right type of rice. Look for high-quality short-grain Japanese rice specifically labeled as sushi rice or japonica rice. Rice like koshihikari or hitomebore are popular choices known for their excellent texture and flavor profile suitable for sushi making.
While koshihikari is the the most popular sushi rice in Japan, there are plenty of others (including some modern cultivars) that can be found. Here are some of the best rice one can use when making sushi.
Best Sushi Rice Cultivars
Koshihikari – Koshihikari is the most popular type of sushi rice in Japan. It is originally from Fukui prefecture but many say the best koshihikari is cultivated in Niigata Prefecture known for their pristine water and ideal growing conditions. Koshihikari rice features plump grains with a delicate sweetness and a soft yet firm texture when cooked.
Hitomebore – Hitomebore is a premium short-grain rice variety highly prized in Japan. It is grown primarily in Miyagi Prefecture. Hitomebore rice is known for its plump and glossy appearance, with grains that cook to a tender and slightly sticky consistency. The name “Hitomebore” translates to “love at first sight,” reflecting the rice’s popularity and the instant admiration it garners from those who taste it. Hitomebore is the second most popular rice in Japan.
Akitakomachi – Akitakomachi is from, you guessed it, Akita prefecture. This is one of the most well balanced rice grains. It is one of the lesser sticky rice (only more than nanatsuboshi on this list) but still glutenous enough for sushi.
Nanatsuboshi – Nanatsuboshi is the most popular rice variety in Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost large island. It is one of the least sticky rice used in sushi and the individual grains are tougher than other brands giving the rice a firm bite. Nanatsuboshi is great in onigiri (rice balls) as the grains form a wonderful coating around the filling of choice.
Yumepirika – Yumepirika is considered by many to be the best rice in Japan. A title that comes with a hefty price. Yumepirika is sticky and soft, with an almost buttery-sweet taste. It has consecutively achieved the top rank by the Japan Grain Inspection Association for the past 13 years.
Sasanishiki – Sasanishiki is another strain that is often used by high end sushi restaurants. It comes from Miyagi prefecture and was developed over 50 years ago. It is a little more ‘wet’ than koshihikari which makes the finished nigiri look extra shiny.
What Tools Are Needed To Make Sushi Rice
There are three main tools that are needed to make perfect sushi rice. There are more tools needed to make sushi, but in this guide I’m only focusing on teaching how to make the rice correctly. Each of these tools serve a specific purpose, although I will also teach about acceptable substitutes in case you prefer something else.
Hagama (or Donabe)
A hagama is a traditional earthenware or cast iron pot used in Japan to make rice. The first step in making sushi rice is to make the actual rice, so a hagama (or donabe) is necessary. The hagama is columnar in shape and has a wooden lid made of sawara cypress.
A donabe is a clay pot which some chefs prefer as it weighs less and has more utility; For example they can also be used for soups and stews. Donabe is more versatile than a hagama which is strictly meant for making rice.
Many sushi masters will not recommend using an electric rice cooker, so it is rare to see them in high end sushi restaurants. However when making sushi for yourself you can of course use whatever you think is best.
Hangiri (Sushi Oke 寿司桶)
A hangiri, also called sushi oke, is a large wooden bucket used for seasoning, mixing, and cooling the rice. Hangiri are traditionally made from sawara cypress and are easily identified by their signature copper bands of which there are two.
Being made of wood, the hangiri is optimal for wicking away excess moisture keeping your rice grains at the perfect consistency for making sushi.
These days you can find cheaper versions made of white pine and bound with plastic bands, but if you are serious about mastering your sushi rice I highly recommend getting an authentic sushi oke.
Shamoji
One of the most simple, and fortunately cheapest sushi making tools is the shamoji. This is a simple wood or plastic paddle that is used to mix and spread the rice in the sushi oke after it is cooked.
Either wood or plastic are fine, but metal is not. A metal utensil can not only crush and cut the rice grains, but it can scratch the hangiri wood making it less effective.
How To Make Perfect Sushi Rice
Step 1: Washing The Rice
Before cooking, it’s crucial to rinse the sushi rice thoroughly to remove excess starch, which can cause the rice to become overly sticky or mushy. Place the rice in a bowl, cover it with cold water, and gently swish the grains with your fingers. Pour out the water. Repeat this process several times until the water runs mostly clear, indicating that the rice is properly rinsed.
Next is called polishing or sharpening. After pouring out the water move the rice grains around with your fingers so they sort of grind up against each other. Then add water and drain. Repeat this sub-step two or three times. This helps remove any cracked grains or detritus that was missed in the first rinsing step.
Finally cover the rice with cold water and let rest for 30-60 minutes.
Note: I highly recommend using filtered water if you can as certain tap water can add unwanted impurities to the rice.
Step 2: Calculating The Correct Water To Rice Ratio
There is no hard and fast rule when calculating the correct water to rice ratio when making sushi rice. Sushi chefs will spend the beginning of their career, and much of it as well, finding the ratio they like for the specific rice they prefer.
Many people think sushi rice uses a 1:1 ratio (one cup of rice to one cup of water), which is also what you find in most online searches. However I can tell you that most professional sushi chefs use less water than that. I recommend a 0.9:1 ratio as the rice has already sat in cold water for a while and thus a 1:1 ratio can cause the rice to be mushy.
Note: Rice that is older may require more water, so if you know your rice is over one year old, you can go back to a 1:1 ratio.
Step 3: Cooking The Sushi Rice
After soaking the rice and calculating your ratio it is time to cook. Drain your rice from the soaking bowl and place it in the hagama or donabe. Add your water and give a single quick stir as sometimes the rice grains suction themselves to the bottom before you add the water and they can burn.
Place your pot on the stove and cover with the lid. A donabe and hagama lid work differently. The donabe lid is made of clay and has a hole to vent steam. The hagama lid is made of either wood or iron (edomae traditional usage). I use a hagama with a wood lid, but I add a weight to it so that less steam escapes when cooking. The weight is optional, it is just how I was taught by my mentor so I’m telling it to you here.
Put the pot on almost high heat and let the rice cook for 10 minutes. Due to the differences between your stove, pot, lid, and ambient air temperature, think of 10 minutes on nearly high heat as a starting point. In fact, it may not be enough time, or it may be too much. This is something you will have to figure out on your own.
After 10 minutes turn off the stove and let the rice sit in the pot for another 10 minutes. Do not open the lid yet.
If all went well you should have made some delicious plain rice. But we aren’t done yet, because the rice still needs to be seasoned to turn into sushi rice!
Step 4: Seasoning And Mixing
Seasoning
If you have chosen the best rice you can find, and purchased the correct tools to make rice, and actually cooked the rice…well, this next step is the most difficult. Seasoning the rice is what can separate the great sushi masters from the good, from the average, from the bad. In fact, every sushi chef has their own seasoning mix, or sushi-zu as it is called, and many are extremely protective of their recipe.
The truth is, the sushi-zu recipe mainly comes down to personal preference. Even if you eat at well regarded sushi restaurants you might find the rice to be too sweet, or too sour, or too salty, or have another weird flavor. This is personal preference and it is okay.
I could write a whole article about how to make sushi rice seasoning (I just might) with all the regional and historic variations, but for your first time I recommend only a simple mix. You can play around with it to make one that suits your preferences so think of mine as a basic guide.
Seasoning Mix For 3 Cups Of Rice
- 175 ml Rice Vinegar – I recommend Iio Jozo brand if you can find it, but other brands are also good.
- 3 tbsp Sugar
- 1 tbsp Salt
Note: If you want to make edomae sushi you will need to get a bottle of akazu (red rice vinegar). This is an aged vinegar and a little difficult to find outside of Japan but it makes for fantastic nigiri. When making edomae sushi-zu I suggest only using vinegar – no sugar or salt.
Mixing
Once the sushi rice has rested for 10 minutes in the covered pot, tip the contents directly onto your freshly rinsed hangiri. It is important to rinse the hangiri before using it for two reasons. One, it is a way to remove any dust that has built up since you last used it. And two, it helps prevent the cooked rice from sticking to the wood.
Spread: Use the shamoji to spread the rice out slightly, then pour over your vinegar. This method is a bit tricky so here’s what you do:
Season: Move the shamoji back and forth above the rice with the flat side facing up. Pour the vinegar slowly onto the paddle so it is evenly dispersed over all the rice.
Mix: Use the paddle to mix the rice around in the hangiri. Do not stir it around like you would a pot of soup, rather use the edge of the paddle to gently fluff the rice as you spread it around the bucket.
Fan: Use a paper fan to cool the rice for about a minute, then let the rice rest for a few more minutes.
Repeat the mix and fan step. Then let rice rest for 10 minutes.
Cover: Gently move the rice to one side of the hangiri and cover with a damp kitchen towel (fukin) until ready to make delicious nigiri, makizushi, and more.
Sushi Rice Pro Tips
- Use a wooden utensil (shamoji) for mixing and handling sushi rice to prevent sticking and maintain proper texture.
- Avoid overcooking or overmixing the rice, as it can become too mushy or sticky for sushi.
- Adjust the seasoning to your taste preference, balancing the sweetness and acidity of the sushi-zu for a harmonious flavor profile.
- Store leftover sushi rice properly by covering it with a damp cloth to prevent drying out.
What Next
After making perfect sushi rice the only thing left to do is to make perfect sushi! Ok, that part is difficult just because there are so many different types of sushi, from the classic nigiri, to maki rolls, hand rolls, and even chirashi. I recommend picking a type of sushi you love most and practicing it until you can make it well, then move on to a new type.