Arguably the most famous fish in Japan is the red seabream. All breams are called tai in Japanese, but only the red seabream gets the name madai, which translates to ‘true bream’. This fish is not just popular in sushi, but in Japanese culture as well. From famous ukiyo-e prints, to even the famous taiyaki design, this fish is pretty iconic.
Madai is known as a shiromi in sushi making, which is the family of fishes known for their white flesh. Yes, I know it is slightly pink (salmon is also considered a white fish) but when you look at Japanese fish classifications it makes more sense. In this guide I am going to show how to fillet a red seabream and give some basic instruction to making a nigiri with this fish.
Difference Between Tai And Madai?
In Japan there is the word tai and the word madai. Tai (鯛) refers to sea bream as a whole, whereas madai (真鯛) refers to the red seabream aka Pagrus major. The red seabream is a very auspicious fish in Japanese culture and it is eaten many different ways. From its use as a neta (sushi topping) to being grilled for New Years, to even being deep fried, this is one of the most beloved fish in Japan.
While all seabreams are tasty, madai has a rich umami taste naturally in the flesh which make it perfect as a sushi topping. And because it is so naturally good, there does not need to be any extra preparation like zuke or kombujime to improve the taste of the fish.
How To Prepare A Madai For Sushi
Like most of my fish I usually get them descaled and gutted from my fishmonger when I make sushi at home (in the restaurant I do this myself but at home I am a bit lazy). So this part of the guide will start with an already scaled and gutted madai.
The best tool for filleting a fish like this is a deba, which is a single bevel knife specifically made to fillet fish. It can take some getting used to, but once you get the hang of it you’ll never go back to a basic chef’s knife again.
To begin, make a deep cut behind the front fins as well as by the tail. See photo above for reference. Then with your knife angled around 45 degrees, make a series of cuts along the top and bottom of the fish until you reach the spine.
Finally use the knife to slice the fillet from the tail to the head breaking through ribcage bones as needed.
Once you have the two fillets ready it is time to break out your yanagiba (fish slicing knife) to remove the skin and cut the pieces for nigiri. Unlike kasugo (young sea bream) it is more popular to remove the skin of madai for sushi. You do not need to – there is no rule that says you must. If you want to leave the skin on you are more than welcome to do so.
Place the fish skin side down and use your knife to get between the flesh and the skin. Then grip the skin tightly and wiggle it back and forth so the knife separates the two. This is the best method to protect the flesh from tearing.
A popular method with tai is to firm the flesh by salting it briefly. Place the fillets into your strainer and sprinkle generously with salt. Let sit for 15-20 minutes. Then rinse quickly with cold water before slicing for sushi.
Once you have your prepared skinless fillets you can use the same knife to cut the fish into sashimi or neta. This step takes some skill so keep practicing until you get to a level you are happy with.
Making Madai Nigiri
The most important part of any sushi is the rice. Believe it or not, afficionados judge the best quality sushi restaurants on how good the rice is – as fish, or any neta is considered secondary. Since madai is a traditional Edomae fish, I use akazu vinegar rice, which gives the rice grains a slightly orange color.
If you want to learn how to make sushi rice click here.
Making Madai Nigiri Steps
- Place the slice of fish in your left hand going along where your fingers meet your palm.
- With your right hand grab a small amount of rice and form it into an oval shape.
- Press the rice gently into the fish in your left hand, making an indentation in the center.
- Flip the nigiri and press the fish down over the rice using two fingers.
- Rotate and press again, then rotate and press once more.
- Place nigiri on a plate.
For madai I do not suggest adding wasabi between the fish and rice, or even to top with ginger or green onion. At its most simple this is a classic nigiri of fish and rice where both parts can be appreciated individually and together.
Sushi Terms Used In This Article
madai: (真鯛) the Japanese word for the red seabream, an iconic fish not just in sushi making but in Japanese culture
tai: the Japanese name for seabreams in general
ukiyo-e: a style of art made from woodblock prints popular from the mid 17th to late 19th century
taiyaki: a pastry in the shape of a red seabream stuffed with various fillings – most commonly azuki or red bean paste
shiromi: name for white fish used in sushi making (a type of classification)
nigiri: a type of sushi made of a small ball of rice with a topping(s)
neta: sushi topping
kombujime: a fish curing method where a fillet of fish is placed between two pieces of moistened kombu (seaweed) and left to age for 1-5 days.
deba: a Japanese thick knife meant for breaking down fish to be used in a variety of purposes
yanagiba: a long, single bevel knife used for slicing fish into sashimi or for sushi toppings
kasugo: young sea bream (when they get older then they become tai)
edomae: a Japanese word that means ‘in front of Edo’ and references sushi made in the traditional Edo period style.
akazu: red vinegar made from sake lees (byproduct of sake making) commonly used in Edomae style sushi preparations
wasabi: a Japanese root similar to horseradish with a slight spice and pungent, floral notes
SEE MORE AT GLOSSARY